Hey Luxury Lovers! Bora Aksu showed SS27 on Friday 18 September at St Cyprian’s church in Marylebone, and a church was exactly right for a collection this romantic. Models walked through the nave, the interior dressed with foliage, and the whole cast closed the show standing together.
The woman behind it
The collection is built around Mary Beale, one of the first women in England to make a professional career as a painter — and whose husband gave up his own work to run her studio. Aksu pulled on seventeenth-century menswear for it: structured shoulders, waistcoat shapes, shirting, closures that look borrowed from a man’s wardrobe, all cut for a woman.
What it looked like
Sharper and more sculpted than his usual soft volume, with corsetry and the boning deliberately left visible, so the dresses read almost inside out. Sheer layered ruffles and crinoline. Veils that made it feel ceremonial, almost bridal. Creams, vanilla, powder blue and pastel, cut with black and deep oxblood.
The craft is the story: Antep embroidery made with artisans in Gaziantep, handmade lace, and some pieces that took up to six months to finish. The mayor of Gaziantep came to talk about that embroidery reaching a London runway, which I thought was rather lovely.
My verdict
If you have a summer wedding in the diary, take notes. Delicate, a little undone and completely dreamy — and a reminder that the slowest clothes are usually the ones worth keeping.
Runway photographs: Vogue Runway.
See every look on Vogue Runway →
Luxury Mummy xo
