Hey Luxury Lovers! Burberry closed London Fashion Week AW26 on Monday 23 February at Old Billingsgate, the old fish market on the Thames, and Daniel Lee built a fragmented, full-height replica of Tower Bridge inside it in raw scaffolding, lit by streetlamps, with the check worked vertically into the cladding. The runway was black tarmac strewn with glossy resin puddles. It looked exactly like London in the rain, and I mean that as the highest compliment.
The trenches
After two seasons in the countryside, the Burberry woman came back to town for a night out. “Clothes for the night, as well as the day,” as Lee put it. The show opened on a trench in a chalky champagne shade and closed on a slick asphalt-black one, both with ruffled jabot collars like Victorian cravats — the most-discussed detail of the week, and I loved them.
Trenches came in pleated silk, in check, in shearling, in leather, and one embroidered with a map of London. Styled like accessories, thrown over satin slip dresses and sequins.
The rest of it
Paper-fine leather with a petrol sheen on bombers, jumpsuits and raincoats. Shearling bombers, mufflers and full-length coats with raw edges and swinging mohair tassels. Overcoats cut fuller for men, tuxedos worn deliberately casually.
Accessories: Bridle shoulder bags in leather and shearling, mini chain-strap bags, pillar pumps, caged sandals, leather gloves and hoods. FKA twigs did the soundtrack, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Romeo Beckham walked, and every guest went home with a silk scarf printed with a London map.
My verdict
Fifty-four looks and not one of them apologetic. If you buy one thing from AW26, make it a trench you can wear over an evening dress.
Runway photographs: Vogue Runway.
See every look on Vogue Runway → · See the collection on burberry.com →
Luxury Mummy xo
