Hey Luxury Lovers! Oscar Ouyang is Beijing-born, London-based and part of NEWGEN, and he showed Cygnet on Friday 18 September at Rochelle, a former Victorian school in Shoreditch, on the sunlit top floor. It is his third show on schedule and it was made with Pull&Bear through the BFC’s Canvas for Creativity project.
The in-between
A cygnet is the stage before the swan — coming of age, an identity assembled from borrowed parts. “It’s not a transformation, but it’s somewhere that’s in between,” he said, and you can see it in clothes that look conventional from the front and open up unexpectedly at the back. Dinner jackets with the arms cut away and the linings on show. Waistcoats flapping open. A white blouse twisted across one shoulder.
Knitwear and heirlooms
Knit is his signature and it is wonderful here: swans worked in intarsia, Fair Isle motifs deliberately broken up, metallic yarns modelled on antique family silverware. Slouchy sweaters with embellished silk shorts, running shorts puffed into huge volumes, ruffled shirts with insignia track pants, satin safari jackets nipped at the waist.
The details: pine-cone jewellery, curtain-like tassels, satin hair bands, hidden pockets, detachable hardware, worn suede festival boots, and confetti. “It’s chic with a little chaos,” as he put it — “a burst of confetti just before the night comes to an end.”
My verdict
Buy his knitwear now, before everyone else does.
Runway photographs: Vogue Runway.
See every look on Vogue Runway →
Luxury Mummy xo
