Hey Luxury Lovers! Emilia Wickstead showed AW26 inside her own Sloane Street flagship on Sunday 22 February — intimate, no vast venue, just the clothes and a small room, which I rather liked.
The woman she was thinking about
Fano Messan, the early twentieth-century sculptor and actress on the edge of the Parisian avant-garde, who dressed androgynously and presented as male to get into art school. “I became entranced by this androgynous look,” Wickstead said — and, of the woman she was dressing, “I wanted her to feel liberated.” The Swiss writer Annemarie Schwarzenbach was on the mood board too.
The clothes
Sculpted, precise tailoring with elongated lines, set against deliberately looser cuts. A black tuxedo shirt with a full skirt and a stiff white bib laid over the shoulders. A near-equestrian black suit over a voluminous wing-tip shirt worn like a dress. Knee-length kilts with thigh-high slits. A tweed shift over an undone denim shirt.
Birdseye wool, bouclé, metallic florals with dense embroidery, liquid metal brocade. Prince of Wales check and houndstooth blown up and reworked. Brown, black and crimson, with metallics running through.
Then eveningwear to close: a voluminous train, off-the-shoulder florals, and a strapless gold sequin dress with beaded fringe at the hem.
My verdict
Knee-length socks with heavy brogues by day, pointed satin flats by night. Nobody does a red tailored dress quite like her, and I will be wearing one to every lunch this winter.
Runway photographs: Vogue Runway.
See every look on Vogue Runway →
Luxury Mummy xo
