Hey Luxury Lovers! Erdem Morałıoğlu marked twenty years of his house at Tate Britain on Sunday 22 February, in the Duveen Galleries, with models walking a maze of tightly packed benches. The collection is called The Imaginary Conversation, and the idea is that all the women he has built collections around over twenty years finally meet each other.
The guest list
Deborah Mitford, Maria Callas, the photographer Madame Yevonde, Radclyffe Hall, Adele Astaire, the botanical artist Marianne North. Not a retrospective, he was clear about that — a conversation between them.
So the archive gets cut up and sewn back together: collaged jacquard off-cuts, patchworked mini dresses, whole wardrobes patchworked into one look. And the bridal gown from his 2006 debut came back, remade with huge gathered skirts. Twenty years, darling.
What I would wear
Pannier waists, crinolines, Elizabethan collars, 1950s ballgown volume, hourglass jackets — against grey herringbone tailoring worn inside out, tweeds with the linings exposed and deconstructed kilt skirts.
There is a Barbour collaboration on the runway for the first time: waxed cotton opera coats and capes lined in dense embroidery and crystal. Ostrich feather appliqué, marabou trims, jet crystal jewellery, tinsel fringe. Colour runs grey herringbone, forest green velvet, ivory, ocean blue, lime, ruby — and one acid yellow column dress I would wear tomorrow.
And then bra tops with low-rise wide-leg jeans, because it is 2026.
My verdict
Edie Campbell and Karen Elson walked, the front row was Helen Mirren, Glenn Close and Keira Knightley, and he dedicated it to his studio. A proper London moment.
Runway photographs: Vogue Runway.
See every look on Vogue Runway → · See the collection on erdem.com →
Luxury Mummy xo
