Hey Luxury Lovers! Of all the shows at London Fashion Week SS27, this is the one I keep thinking about. Mulberry back on a runway after six years, with Christopher Kane as creative director of womenswear and his sister Tammy beside him, the way it has always been. It happened on Sunday 20 September at the Queen Elizabeth II Centre in Westminster — a plain hall with rows of office chairs, which after years of grand Claridge’s sets felt like a statement in itself.
No logo, just the bag
Here is the clever bit. Instead of plastering a logo across everything, Kane took the notched outline of the Bayswater flap and used it as the signature. It turns up as a crenellated edge on coats, tailoring, knitwear and shirts, and on a short white leather dress built from horizontal tiers of those flaps, fringing as she walks. “My point was to say ‘Mulberry’ without a logo,” he told British Vogue. Darling, consider the point made.
There is also a long greige raincoat lined in brown check, taken almost unchanged from a Roger Saul design from the 1980s, and the house check reworked bigger and bolder, including a wipe-clean vinyl overcoat with the tartan printed on.
The bags and the shoes
The accessories are what I would queue for. The Chop is a flat, curved shoulder bag shaped like the sheath for an axe — a nod to the mulberry trees Roger Saul saw from the train, and the axe he used for his first belts. The Rocker has a curved base, the archive Piccadilly comes supersized, and there is a backpack whose Postman’s Lock clasp crosses the chest like a harness. Then: mirrored heels carved into axe shapes. I gasped.
My verdict
Grey, beige and white with orange and burgundy running through it, paper-fine leather at one end and 1990s parkas and rugby shirts at the other. It is British in the way I actually recognise — establishment and subculture in the same wardrobe.
It lands in stores and online in January 2027. I will be the one with the axe-heel mirrored shoes and absolutely no shame about it.
Runway photographs: Vogue Runway.
See every look on Vogue Runway →
Luxury Mummy xo
