Hey Luxury Lovers! Petra Fagerström is Swedish, London-based, an LVMH Prize finalist, and SS27 was her first proper runway show, supported by NEWGEN. The collection is called Swedish Summer and it is clever in a way I find genuinely exciting.
Designing with the glitch
She works from AI-generated imagery and then keeps the mistakes — she calls it glitching. The best example: a trench coat designed never to close, because the AI image she was working from showed one that could not. There is a parka restrained and body-following at the front that balloons dramatically at the back, and a bomber with a whole corseted jacket built inside it.
Her references are film-literate and a little bit dangerous: The Piano Teacher, The Bitter Tears of Petra von Kant, The Graduate. Conservative clothes, distorted.
The craft
A leather version of Dior’s Bar jacket, nipped and structured. Lenticular pleating, where digital drawings are printed and then hand-pleated with hundreds of stitches so the image shifts as you move — pushed furthest on a cheetah-print gradient. A dress that reads as a tweed suit from across the room and reveals lace as it moves. Trompe l’œil florals that are actually lingerie, with a lattice effect that only appears in motion.
She also showed her first handbag, made with Eden Tan of ETMFG.
My verdict
Polished on the surface and a little unhinged underneath, which is my favourite kind of woman and my favourite kind of clothes. One to watch, and one to buy early.
Runway photographs: Vogue Runway.
See every look on Vogue Runway → · Watch the show film on petrafagerstrom.com →
Luxury Mummy xo
